Yu Zhu Feng, altitude 6,178 meters, is the highest peak in the eastern Kun Lun Mountains and located about 3 hours by car outside of Ge Er Mu (Golmud), in Qinghai, China. The climbing season is from May to October with the best time of year in July and August.

Yu Zhu Feng is an ideal mountain for beginners. The mountain has two climbable slopes: the north slope and the south slope. The north slope of the mountain is in a wide flat that begins at 4,300 meters above sea level near the small village of Xi Da Tan. The north slope is good for technical mountaineers looking to practice their skills. As well, the north slope is good for those hoping to acclimatize and rest at Xi Da Tan before heading over to the southern slope. The southern slope of Yu Zhu Feng lies at an altitude of 5,050 meters. It is much more friendly for beginner climbers as the shape and formation of the glacier makes it an ideal place for first-timers and beginners to climb a high-altitude peak. The southern slope will serve as our playground as we set out for the summit of Yu Zhu Feng!

Although Yu Zhu Feng is one of China’s accessible commercial peaks, still the amount of oxygen in the air is low and adapting to the high altitude is difficult… Nonetheless, a high level of climbing skills is not needed and overall the mountain is very safe. Moreover, Yu Zhu Feng is prime staging grounds for practice to go climber higher peaks of 7,000 and 8,000 meters.

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(View of Yu Zhu Feng from the southern slope of the mountain)


Yu Zhu Feng Itinerary

D1:Arrival in Beijing, China

Check in to our hotel and get settled in. Gear check. If time permits, visit a local sight of interest. Prepare for the next day’s travel.

D2:Travel Ge Er Mu (Golmud), Altitude 2,800 meters

Golmud

Fly from Beijing to Xi Ning or Xi’an (2.5 hours) and then take a 45 minute flight to Ge Er Mu. After arrival in Ge Er Mu, check into our hotel and in the evening meeting we will have a meeting to discuss the plan for climbing the mountain.

D3:Ge er mu to Xi Da Tan, Altitude 4,200 meters

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Drive 2-3 hours by private transport from Ge er mu to Xi Da Tan. Acclimatize to the high elevation and enjoy the amenities (warm rooms, hot showers, and the grilled meat) of Xi Da Tan. Tonight we will stay at a local guesthouse.

D4:Xi Da Tan, Altitude 4,200 meters

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An acclimatization day in Xi Da Tan as we adapt to the altitude. In the morning, we will take an acclimatization hike to help our bodies adjust. In the afternoon, we will review our mountaineering safety techniques. Tonight we will again stay at a local guesthouse.

D5:Xi Da Tan to Yu Zhu Feng Southern Slope Base Camp, Altitude 5,050 meters

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Drive 2 hours from Xi Da Tan to the Southern Slope Base Camp and continue adapting to acclimatize properly. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.

D6:Base Camp (BC), Altitude 5,050 meters

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A complete day to acclimatize at base camp. In the morning, we will take an acclimatization hike to help our bodies adjust. In the afternoon, we will do another review of our mountaineering safety techniques. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.

D7:BC, Altitude 5,050 meters to glacier (Altitude 5,300 meters) for training

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After breakfast we will climb to the glacier for training on how to use crampons, ice axe, and how to ascend the glacier. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.

D8:BC to Camp 1, Altitude 5,600 meters

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Climb from BC to Camp 1 in approximately 5 hours of climbing. After arrival prepare to go the summit the next day. Shortly after dinner we will go to bed to have energy to complete the climb in the morning. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.

D9:Camp 1 to Summit (Altitude 6,178 meters), Summit to Base Camp, Base Camp to Ge Er Mu

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Leave at 2 AM for a 6-8 hour climb to the summit. Return to Camp 1 and gather personal belongings and descend 3 hours to BC. After a short rest at BC, we will drive 3-4 hours by private vehicle back to Ge Er Mu for a night at the hotel.

D10:Ge Er Mu to Beijing

Today we will fly from Ge Er Mu to Xi Ning or Xi’an (45 minutes) and then fly to Beijing (2.5 hours)

D11/12:Contingency Days

In the case of inclement weather or other reasons, we will reserve two contingency days.

D13:Departure from Beijing

You are free to head back to your respective destinations at any time on this day.


Cost

The cost of a 13 day climbing trip to Yu Zhu Feng is 3,000 USD per person for a group of 4 or more.

The price includes:

  • a professional English speaking guide
  • an assistant guide, all necessary porters and support crew
  • all necessary group equipment (tents, dining tent, ropes, technical climbing gear, radios, satellite phone)
  • all necessary permits
  • accommodation at a 4 star hotel in Beijing and Ge Er Mu
  • all accommodation and transportation after arrival in Beijing
  • 3 meals per day and all necessary non-alcoholic beverages after arrival in Beijing

The price does not include:

  • China visa fees
  • transport to and from Beijing
  • food and beverages outside of the 3 meals per day
  • alcohol
  • personal climbing gear including sleeping bag, sleeping pad, clothing, boots, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, sunglasses
  • personal mountaineering insurance

NB: A minimum number of 4 clients is necessary to carry-out the trip. We look forward to our expedition together to Yu Zhu Feng!